Laurel Tan tells you how to have hair that always looks healthy and gorgeous, no matter what the type.WHAT IS HEALTHY HAIR?Hair that's in good condition is reistant to breakage, easy to manage, and reflects light. This last quality depends mainly on the cuticle of the hair shaft, and how intact it is. According to Paula Begoun, in her book,
Don't Go Shopping for Hair Care Products Without Me: "When the cuticle is healthy and intact, lying flat and tight against the hair shaft, the hair reflects light evenly, producing a wonderful lustre and shine."
KNOW YOUR HAIR TYPEThe key to understanding which products work best for you lies in determining your hair type. There are three broad categories: fine and thin, medium, and coarse and thick. Asian hair is dark brown to black in colour, has a straight, non-bending hair shaft, and can be thick compared to Caucasion and African hair.
HAIR-Y WISDOM- Basic haircare is the same as basic skincare - shampooing the hair is like cleansing the face; a rinse-off conditioner works like a toner; applying a leave-in treatment is the same as applying a face moisturiser.
- Use cool water to rinse your hair as hot water can dry out your scalp.
- A well-balanced diet ensures healthy, shiny hair.
4 STEPS TO CREAT HAIRFollow these hair-TLC steps from Leslie Wolski in her book,
The Body Shop Spa.
- Hair brushing This massages your scalp, loosens dead skin cells, spreads natuaral oils over the hair shaft, and improves circulation in the scalp to promote hair growth. Choose a brush with flexible bristles, and only brush hair when it is dry. Comb hair about 50 times using long, firm strokes. Bend over and repeat.
- Essential oil wash Choose an essential-oil-infused shampoo. Shampoo your scalp gently using the pads of your fingers. Avoid rubbing your hair against your scalp. Scratch scalp lightly with your nails to stimulate circulation. Rinse and gently pat your hair dry with a towel.
- Scalp conditioning Treat yourself to a scented scalp-conditioning rub. Blend two drops each of ylang-ylang and palmarosa essential oils with one tablespoon of jojoba oil; apply the oils to your head and knead your scalp. Wrap your hair with a towel and leave on for 15 minutes.
- Hair conditioning Hemp seed oil conditioners are excellent for light conditioning. Gently work a dollop of conditioner through your hair, paying special attention to the ends. Rinse with tepid to cool water. Towel-dry your hair, then comb through gently. Let hair dry naturally.
HAIRCARE FOR YOUR HAIR TYPEWendy Ng, techincal manager at Redken, on what different hair types need.
Damaged Hair
What it is? Hair is damaged when the cuticle is no longer flat enough or intact so as to provide structural integrity to the hair, leaving it vulnerable to splitting and breakage. Damage can occur as a result of excessive chemical porcessing, exposure to heat, and mechanical factors (eg. backcombing).
Tips The best course of action in most circumstances is to cut it. The last thing you should do is try and correct the damage through further colouring, perming or heat treatments!
How to care A weekly intensive home mask coats the hair follicle with ingredients that smooth the cuticle and seal in moisture A good rinse-off conditioner and leave-in treatment are important for strength and shine. Leave in for as long as possible for maximum penetration.
Try - Schwarzkopf Pofessional BC Bonacure Repair Collagen Therapy, $36
- Goldwell Kerasilk Treatment Ultra Rich Care, $20, Tel: 68351551
- L'Occitane Aromachologie Shampoo, $30
- L'Occitane Aromachologie Conditioner, $30
Dry/Brittle
What it is? Dry hair is characterised by dullness, split ends and roughness, and is often difficult to comb or brush. Frequently caused by excessive heat-assisted styling (e.g. hairdryers, curling tongs, etc) and overexposure to the sun and chemicals.
Tips Try using a hair sunscreen or protecting your hair with a headscarf or hat while in the sun When using a hairdryer, set it on 'cool' and aim it downwards from the top of your head against the hair shaft.
How to Care After shampooing apply a rinse-off conditioner and leave-in treatment. Use a moisture treatment/mask once or twice a week to replenish mositure. Regular brushing will stimulate the scalp's production of natural oils and counteract dryness.
Try
- Kiehl's Extra Strength Conditioning Rinse With Added Coconut, $35
- Paul Mitchell Instant Moisture Daily Treatment, $22.50
- Origins Rich Rewards Intensive Moisture Treatment For Scalp and Hair, $35
Fine/ThinWhat it is? Fine hair lacks volume and can be fragile as well. Compared to medium- or coarse- textured hair, it is more vulnerable to damage and twice as prone to breakage. It is commonly difficult to add volume to fine hair or get it to 'hold' a style.
Tips Volumising products like mousses can help boost fullness by coating the hair, making it appear thicker Deliberatly damaging your hair through colour or heat treatments can add volume and increase ease of styling, but we don't recommend it.
How to Care Avoid heavy, moisture-based products, as these can weigh fine hair down. Try a lightweight conditioner to protect hair from damage. Apply a leave-in treatment at the roots to boost hair volume and strengthen hair fibres.
Try- L'Oreal Professionnel Volume Extreme Volumising Conditioner, $26
- Paul Mitchell Botanical Body-Building Treatment, $26.50
- Redken Body Full Plump Treat Leave-in Thickening Treatment, $36
ColouredWhat it is? Coloured hair tends to be dry and has a slightly rough texture, no thanks to chemical processing. It may have split ends and be prone to colour fade-outs.
Tips If you wear your hair in a part, try alternating the side you wear it on so you don't get just one section of your hair exposed to the elements. Shampoo your hair immeidately after swimming to remove traces of chlorine and other chemicals.
How to Care Choose gentle moisturising shampoos and nourishing conditioners formulated for coloured hair; use masks once a week and wear a sunscreen for daily protection. A leave-in treatment helps prevent colour oxidisation and makes artificial hair colour last longer.
Try
- Kerastase Reflection Bain Mirror Shine Revealing Shampoo, $36
- L'Anza Hair Repair Formula Reconstructor, $27
- H20+ Spa Sea Plankton Restructuring Conditioner, $39.90
Coarse/Unruly
What it is? Hair that's voluminous and dull in all the wrong places. It usually comes with a slight wave.
Tips Once hair is dry, any last bits of frizz can be tamed with a silicone-based serum. Handle your hair as infrequently as possible. Too much friction erodes and fractures the cuticle.
How to Care A leave-in conditioner applied daily from mid-shaft to ends, will help smooth and tame flyaways. For better control and to prevent static electricity, run a fabric softener sheet through your hair.
Try
Kiehl's Leave-In Hair Conditioner, $45Cotril Sleek Hair Smoothing Shampoo, $21.50, Tel: 68442720Lancome Hair Sensation Nutrition Intense Extra Rich Conditioning Mask, $44
Curly/Wavy
What it is? Curly/wavy hair tends to be fry, fragile, frizzy, hard to control, dehydrated, and sensitive. Some types are wavy while other have medium to tight coils. The degree of variation depends on the curl pattern of the hair.
Tips A curl activator will increase curl definition and encourage a more polished finish. Use a diffuser when blow-drying to define curls naturally.
How to Care For added moisture, give your curls and waves a hot oil treatment every two to three weeks. Apply a deep conditioner on a regular bsis for moisture control. Have a haircut every six to eight weeks to neaten stringy ends.
Try
L'Oreal Professionnel Shine Curl Nutripulse Curl-Enhancing Shampoo, $22Kerastase Nutritive Elasto-curl Definition Forming Cream, $42Goldwell Curl Definition Treatment Intense, $27HAIR 'FACTS': TRUE OR FALSE?
'FACT' No. 1: Washing hair every day dries it out
FALSE! Daily shampooing will maintain the moisture , body and beauty of your hair. The key is in finding the right shampoo for your hair type.
'FACT' No. 2: The same shampoo becomes ineffective if used over time
FALSE! Many people swear that hair becomes 'immune' to the benefits of the same shampoo over time. There is no scientific evidence for this.
'FACT' No. 3: Scalp burn can lead to hair loss
TRUE! Severe sunburn or burns that occur over time can damage hair follicles at the root. Avoid scalp burn by applying sun protection products to your scalp as well as your hair.
'FACT' No. 4: Hair should be washed every day
FALSE! Your shampooing schedule should suite your hair needs and lifestyle. While some people benefit from a daily shampoo, others prefer a twice- or thrice- weekly wash.
'FACT' No. 5: Brushing thinning hair will make it fall out faster
FALSE! As long as you use a good brush, normal daily brushing should not cause hair loss. If your hair is suffering from a hair-loss condition like alopecia, brushing will only cause you to lose hair that is already ready to fall. Do not brush hair excessively.
Hair-grooming habits!According to studies by Pantene,
41% of us colour our hair at least once every 6 months
20% of us blow dry our hair more than 7 times a week.
World-reowned cosmetics 'cop' Paula Begoun shares her tips.
- Hair at the root is healthier hair. Apply conditioner only along the length of hair and at the ends, not the roots, especially if you have an oily scalp.
- To avoid 'frying' your hair, make sure every strand is 100 per cent dry before taking a flat or curling iron to it.
- Hair is most fragile when it's wet. To detangle wet hair, blot it dry then run a wide-tooth comb or wide-bristled brush with rounded tips through it.
- It's not necessary to buy expensive shampoos and conditioners. Instead, splurge on a good quality blowdryer, and ceramic flat and curling irons.
- Thicker hair loves serums whereas thinner hair prefers shine sprays.
Bet you didn't know...A single strand of hair is only 0.02 to 0.04 millimetres thick, but it is remarkably strong, with a tensile strength equivalent to a thin strand of wire!
Extracted from FEMALE Magazine